A 21st Century Pilgrim’s Progress

“Pilgrimage” –something people undertake at the dusk of life, when they have completed all their liabilities and hope that even if they didn’t survive the journey, they would attain Nirvana as they were on their way to God. While it does sound surprising on my travelogue, answering the queries of my curious colleagues during a recent lunch conversation prompted me to write about my experiences as a pilgrim.

A few years ago, while sipping tea at a friend’s place on a cold January morning in Ahmedabad, we were talking of temples randomly and I wondered whether I would really want spend my old age making  arduous pilgrimages or enjoying the hard earned luxuries of life. There are no age limits to pilgrimages. Why not do this now, when health is on the good side, the journey would be less painful and there would be enough energy to enjoy the overall experience. In that contemplation, I resolved to visit the char dhams (pilgrimage places for Hindus) before I reached the age of 35.

My friend pondered over this idea and suggested bringing it to action immediately by visiting the Dwarkadheesh temple while I was in Ahmedabad. The peak season was over and there would be no rush. She had been there recently with her family and from her experience, she vouched that travel from Ahmedabad to Dwarka was pretty easy and safe. An overnight bus would take me to Dwarka, I could do the darshan on the same day and return back at night.  It definitely sounded like a plan.  That night at 10 p.m, I was at the Ahmedabad bus stand waiting for what was just the beginning of the pilgrim’s progress across the temples of India.

Dwarkadheesh , Gujarat-  The bus dropped me at the  Dwarka bus stand at 6 in the morning. Exactly as my friend had mentioned, there were a number of travel agent’s shops at the bus stand itself who were booking for the 2 p.m trip to 6 temples around Dwarka including the Bet Dwarka or Dwarka isle where Lord Krishna is said to have resided with his family. I immediately booked myself on one of these tours. The next thing was to find a place to freshen up before I visited the temple. My friend had prepared me for this well.  Just as she had said, a couple of people approached me for staying at their ‘hotel’ each of which was probably 100-200 meters from the bus stand. I realized that most of these ‘hotels’ were like dharamshalas. They were surprisingly clean and extremely cheap. A nice hot cup of tea and  hot water for bathing, were immediately made available.  I could have stayed there for the whole day for just Rs.300. However as everything was going by the plan there was no need to stay.  So by 9:00 a.m, I was ready to start my Dwarka exploration.

The Dwarkadheesh temple was about 400 meters from where I was staying. I only had to cross a lane and there I was standing in front of the temple. The Sankranti season having just gotten over, the temple was quite empty. The lack of a crowd was so unexpected for me that for a few minutes I doubted if I was actually the famous Dwarkadheesh temple.  After confirming from a couple of shop owners, I was satisfied that it was the right place. The temple does not allow leather bags, cameras, mobiles etc so I had to leave everything outside. The good part was that there was a dedicated place to deposit all this and collect a token.  The temple was quite huge from inside and very clean. They were preparing for the morning Aarti so I sat down right in front of the deity waiting for the darshan.

The whole ritual of the Aarti was a very interesting experience. After waiting for about 15 minutes, the door to the temple opened and we got a view of the deity in his fancy clothes. The cheers from the devotees at the sight of the Lord was exciting. Within a few minutes, the temple doors were closed again. People waited peacefully for another 5-10 minutes before the door opened a second time. And now the deity was adorned with ornaments! Again the cheers rang all over.  This ritual of dressing up the Lord went on for a few more times till the final Aarti began. The experience of watching the Aarti from such close quarters was enchanting.

I then went to the ghat behind the temple which offered a beautiful view of the confluence of the river Gomati into the Arabian sea.  As there was no crowd, I could enjoy the view and complete some of the rituals peacefully.

By noon, I was done with my temple visit. If you want to take Prasad back home with you, you can buy it from one of the shops outside. There were quite a few ‘bhojanalayas’ in the lane that I had traversed between the bus stand and the temple. I ventured into one of those and was served a sumptuous Gujarati thaali. The shrikhand was the highlight of the meal.  By the time I finished my lunch, it was time to get on to the 4 hour tour to the temples in and around Dwarka.  It was a group tour in a mini bus with approximately 20 of us alongwith a guide. The co-passengers were very helpful. We all looked after each other and made sure no one was left behind. The high point of this tour was the visit to Bhet Dwarka.  It was an isle in the middle of the sea.  The way the place was maintained, it looked like Lord Krishna was still living there.  You can make donations at Bhet Dwarka of a minimum amount of Rs.51/- Only if you make a donation, you get Prasad commensurate to the donated amount.

The tour ended at around 6:30 p.m and we were dropped back to the Dwarka bus stand. After a good dinner, I started on my journey back to Ahmedabad. One of the richest memories that I carried back from the temple was the fact that the darshan and the queue was the same for all devotees. And there was no payment required to be made for darshan.

Badrinath, Uttarakhand:   A couple of years later, I got the opportunity to visit the Badrinath temple alongwith my parents. People who had recently visited the temple advised us that the place was really cold even during the month of June and we should carry enough woolens with us. Unfortunately the first week of June when we made the trip turned out to be the hottest period even in Badrinath. We had booked a Toyota Innova for the journey from Dehradun to Badrinath.  The entire stretch was hilly terrain. It is recommended to take trained drivers who are used to driving on the hills instead of driving to Badrinath oneself.  Remarkably there are good roads carved out on the otherwise dry and rocky mountains.  We could see remnants of glaciers on our way. Thankfully we had booked ourselves at the Sarovar Portico in Badrinath. After an exhaustive drive in the summer heat, the suite in the hotel was a very pleasant respite. The view of the hills from the room was breathtaking. We had reached the hotel around noon and after lunch there was ample time for darshan at the temple.

The temple was a kilometer from the spot where the car dropped us. For those who are old or physically challenged, there are human carriers available who carry people on cane seats on their backs or on a palki. The Badrinath temple was a quite a contrast to the Dwarkadheesh.  The temple was probably half the size and the audience, nearly double. Of course, we were visiting during peak season as well.  The first thing that struck me at the temple was the price list for different poojas. One would get the darshan according to the Pooja one paid for. So there was a general queue of people who were not paying for any Pooja. They could only get a glimpse of the deity from outside the main temple for a few seconds after standing for a long time in the queue. If you had paid for a Pooja, you would get the privilege of entering the main temple. The time one was allowed inside was dependant on what Pooja was going on. So one of the ceremonies in the evening was for Rs 250 each for which we got to enter the main temple and view the deity for a few seconds. In the morning there was a ceremony worth Rs.2500 for two people, for which we got to sit inside for 30 minutes. So we eventually ended up paying Rs.6000 for the four of us to make our visit to the temple worthwhile.

As we came out of the temple, the sheer force of the Alaknanda river struck us. It is mesmerizing to watch the wild waters. Other than the temple, the hot water spring and Brahma Kapal also hold great religious importance. After completing certain other rituals we started on our way back post lunch. The Prasad at the temple is not distributed immediately after the Pooja. It normally has to be collected in the afternoon on showing the receipt. But due to certain road constraints, you can depart from the city only before 12 noon, else you would get stranded for hours waiting for the gate to open. So if you really want to collect the Prasad after the elaborate morning Pooja, please plan for one more day of stay in the city. It is preferable to leave your mobile phones in the hotel as most of the networks don’t work there. Else you will have to leave your stuff at one of the shops where you buy the pooja samagri.

Rameshwaram, Tamil Nadu:  For each of the char dhams and some other famous religious places it is said that no matter how much you plan, you will get to visit only when the God/Goddess wants you to. And when it is the right time then even without a plan you will make it. Just like my sudden Dwarka visit, one evening in early 2008, I got a call from my cousin that they were travelling to Madurai, Rameshwaram and Kanyakumari on a 4 day bus tour from Bangalore. She asked me if I was game and on 2 days later I was on the late night bus to Madurai with them. Now that I look back, it was quite a hectic trip. We were in the bus on all four days and would only get to sleep in the hotels. 

On day 2 we reached the Rameshwaram temple. I must say of all the 4 dhaams, I found the Rameshwaram temple visit the most enjoyable one. The temple is huge.  It is cave like and because of the sheer size of the temple, the crowd does not appear intimidating. There are 22 wells in the temple and it is recommended that one should bathe with the waters of each of these wells before the final darshan. To make it easier the priests just take people to each of these wells and before they realize, splash comes a small bucket (the size of a large mug) full of water. After 22 such water splashes, we finally got into the queue to view the deity. The queue was well managed and everybody got their few seconds in front of the lord. As with most temples down south, it was dark inside the inner temple and I could hardly make out the form inside. This whole activity of going to each well and the final darshan takes about 30 minutes. The temple closes in the afternoon. Tour operators would typically be cognizant of that and plan your itinerary accordingly. However, if you are on your own, do find out the afternoon closure timings before you visit the temple.

After the darshan, we visited the famous corridors of Rameshwaram temple.  The corridors are on the back side of the temple and practically have no crowd. Having spent some time relaxing at the temple, we immediately proceeded towards Kanyakumari. On the way to Kanyakumari, there are lots of stories shared by the tour operators. For instance they showed us a very small temple which had two corals floating in a tub of water. The legend shared was that these were the stones that Nal and Neel used to make the bridge across the sea when Lord Ram and the vanar sena went to Lanka to get Sita!

Jagannath Puri, Orissa- Last year, I planned to complete my Char dham yatra by making a visit to the final one, Jagannath Puri. It was supposed to be not so crowded after the Rath Yatra in July and I planned a trip post Diwali in November. Unlike all the other three dhams which were probably the only attraction in the city, Puri had other attractions too like the beaches, Konark temple and Chilika lake. The first thing that struck me at Puri was the unemployment of the youth and their resorting to mechanisms like stopping cabs and claiming a self levied tax. Imagine they have formal Associations of the Unemployed Youth! Anyways, I was glad that we had booked ourselves in a good hotel and not taken a “we’ll figure out when we reach there” approach. The city was dirty and the one thing which was a blessing was the cottage in the hotel.

Having reached the city in the afternoon, we planned to make a visit to the temple in the evening itself. The auto dropped us about 500 meters away from the temple. The whole road to the temple is a commercial market. Again shoes, mobile phones, leather goods etc are not allowed  in the temple and there is no organized place to keep them as well. You have to entrust one of the shops outside the temple which of course do not give you any receipt. The temple was huge and yet it was brimming with the crowd. The architecture was beautiful and I really wanted to spend a few minutes to observe it, but there was just no space to stand still and do that. We kept moving with the crowd and finally reached the main temple for the darshan. The Jagannath Puri temple has the childhood depiction of Lord Krishna, his sister Subhadra and brother Balram. The deities are colorful and very beautiful. The inner temple was brightly lit with a broad entrance. Even amidst the massive crowd, each of the deities were clearly visible. That one minute sight was worth the visit! We were pushed out of the temple alongwith the crowd.

Everything at the Puri temple comes with a price. Even the charnamrit which is water and free for all was being selectively distributed. Everyone wanted to sell something to us or collect a payment.  There  was fresh hot food like rice and dal or kheer being served as Prasad (it has to be purchased of course). But it is something that needs to be consumed immediately and cannot be carried back. It was delicious and even though flanked by the crowd from all sides, I didn’t mind having it then and there. By the way, there are no spoons provided ( it is to be eaten by hand) and if you try to get a spoon, people get offended as they feel you have no reverence and are considering it as something dirty.

With Jagannath Puri, I completed my char dham yatra as per my resolution. Being in 4 different directions in the country, each of these temples also made me experience life in different parts of India. The architecture, the cultural nuances, the rituals, even the way the darshan is organized are all so different yet one thing which runs common is the devotion. There is definitely something divine about these places, which I felt when I was in front of the deity at each of these temples. Only that one minute makes all the difference. The other external ambience is all irrelevant. It does hurt to see the monetization of these temples which should be the house of God and create the same experience for all devotees.  I wish there was a central governing body overlooking arrangements in these temples and built in systems to make them more accessible, clean and a complete experience worth remembering. For now I am glad I made that resolution on that cold January morning 6 years back. With the way they currently are, by the time I am 60 years old, people would probably be doing online darshans and E-teerth yatras!

Kathmandu Chronicle

I was taking a week off from work in April to visit my parents and was keen on travelling to a new place with them where I could switch my mind off work. It started from an sms about a new travel website launched offering holiday packages. The Kathmandu holiday package caught my eye. It just seemed to fit the kind of holiday I was looking for. This triggered off my research and I found a good deal directly through the hotel.

I had always been curious about Nepal from the time I had seen Dev Anand’s movie “Hare Rama Hare Krishna” during my childhood. Even though Nepal is the most accessible country for Indians ( due to the open border policy between the two countries), a holiday to this place just never worked out. And suddenly out of the blue at a week’s notice, I was making arrangements to finally visit the land where Zeenat Aman had gyrated to “Dum Maro Dum”.

The flight to Kathmandu from Delhi is just slightly over an hour’s duration. The quaint Kathmandu airport is probably the smallest international airport I have seen, a complete contrast to Delhi’s terminal 3.  The first thing that I noticed in Kathmandu was the plethora of obsolete car models. All kinds of fancy cars which were in vogue about 15 years back were happily making their way on the roads of the city. The city in itself is a small town, probably the size of Dehradun in India. The hotel had arranged for an airport pick up for us and I was intrigued by the antique Toyota car that came for us (even the speedometer had stopped working).

I had selected a heritage hotel “Shanker Hotel” for our holiday though the popular ones like Soaltee, Yak n Yeti and Everest seem to be the most popular amongst Indian tourists. We were amongst the very few Indian guests at our hotel which seemed to be thronged more by tourists from Europe.

Places we saw in Kathmandu:

Pashupati Nath Temple: This is a Hindu temple with a panchmukhi ( 5 faced) shiv linga. Though it is accessible only to Hindus, it is a popular tourist place. The temple is very clean and well maintained. There was a proper queue for darshan and people were abiding by the queue norms. Though one has to be prepared to be caught by Pandas who would insist on you doing some puja. If you only intend to get a darshan of the deity, stay away from these Pandas.

Swayambhunath Stupa:  This is a a Buddhist stupa with a golden dome and colorful depiction of the Buddha eyes. The Buddha eyes are now a widely used symbol in Nepal from a tourism perspective. The stupa is situated at a height.  You can climb the 300 odd stairs to the top of the hill or drive a little further and take the last fleet of 100 odd stairs. There are a couple of temples next to the stupa. The site also provides a beautiful view of the Kathmandu valley.

Bhaktapur:  There are a number of Durbar Squares in Kathmandu. Based on the recommendation of our hotel staff we visited the Bhaktapur durbar square. It looked like a fort in itself with numerous temples. Our guide told us that the Malla Kings were fond of constructing replicas of popular temples within their Durbar limit. Of course there may be other theories behind the presence of so many temples. But Bhaktapur was a good reflection of the ancient architecture and heritage of Nepal.

We could not  visit the Patan and Krishna durbar squares due to lack of time though  they are also very popular.

Nagarkote:  This place is about 32 kms from Kathmandu and is a kind of picnic spot from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Himalayas. Our guide took us to the Club Himalaya resort to show us the panoramic view. To our chagrin, the clouds had suddenly come about hiding the mountains behind them. We waited for about an hour, and mercifully, the clouds gave in. The view of the Himalayan mountain range was mesmerizing. Also surprisingly, even though it was a five star resort Club Himalaya was cheaper than the hotels in Kathmandu.

Thamel: Our hotel was near Thamel which is a market area. It is a popular tourist market and quite big in size. There are a number of eating joints and hotels in the market area. Though considering it is thronged by tourists, everything is overpriced.

We also visited one of the Casinos though I must say, it was very unimpressive. Most of the casino games have now been automated and they seem to be more like video game parlors and have lost their charm.

Other intriguing experiences in Kathmandu:

Friendliness and all smiles: Everyone in Kathmandu seemed to be smiley faced. They are also soft spoken and have a great regard for Indians. Most of the people we met were curious and had a lot of questions about India.

Maruti Taxis: All the taxis in Kathmandu were Maruti 800 models. Most of them look like they would fall apart any minute though we did not have any such incidents. Looks can be deceptive!

Acceptability of Indian currency: Indian rupees are practically accepted everywhere in Kathmandu. As it is due to the inflated prices for a tourist there seems to be nothing available for less than 100 Nepali rupees, so there isn’t much need for change in Nepali currency.

8:30 p.m closure: The day ends much earlier in Kathmandu. The markets begin closing by 7:30 p.m. The roads were empty by 8:30 p.m with only restaurants open.

Extremely overpriced:  For a distance of 1 km, both taxis and cycle rickshaws would ask for 200 Nepali rupees! And if you are trying to get one from the stand, there will be no negotiation. Try to walk away from the stand and stop a lone taxi coming your way, they may agree to take you in 100 Nepali rupees. For taxis the double night charge begins at 6:00 p.m. In the market, the price quoted for everything will be 10 times. Do bargain and don’t give up. You may have to check in 5-6 shops before one agrees to a decent price. Also be prepared to handle the taunts hurled your way by the shop keepers if you try to bargain.

The airport experience: The Kathmandu airport hardly has any places to eat. There is only one shop (more like a stall) near the final waiting lounge and it would completely rip you off. A packet of chips would cost 200 rupees! Probably the most expensive airport I have been to. Also during departure, there are about 5 places (including the aircraft’s entrance) where one is frisked and the hand baggage is screened. Hand baggage screening includes physical examination of contents at two places.

We stayed in Kathmandu for 3 days and it was actually a good mix of fun and relaxation. There was an old world charm in the city. However considering tourism is one of the biggest industries in Nepal, there is a need to develop the infrastructure to support it failing which in the coming years, it may not be able to stand up to the more economical yet glamorous holiday options available in other countries.

Rajasthan: From the pages of my diary

Bangalore , 22nd Nov 2009:

“It’s an opportunity for a week long vacation. Lets go somewhere really interesting”. That was my friend Sunitha during an after movie coffee conversation. She was referring to the time off from Christmas to New Year.

“What about Rajasthan? I really want to go there.” I had been waiting for this opportunity. Though I stayed in Delhi for 8 long years, the trip to Rajasthan never worked out and here was my chance, being brewed in a coffee shop in Bangalore.

Bangalore, 8th December 2009:

The whacky idea gradually took the form of a detailed travel plan with contemplation on whether it would be safe for two girls to travel alone, which cities should we cover, what should be the duration, do we go through a travel agent or book online. This was followed by lots of research on the internet.

Finally we shortlisted 5 cities – Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner and Jaipur. We decided to take a complete package through a travel agent including pick up from Udaipur airport, accommodation, local travel & sightseeing, road travel across these five cities and finally drop to Delhi. It too us 2 weeks to finalize the bookings in between our peak work schedules. I must say, doing self research on the internet is very helpful when stepping into unknown territory. We did not take everything at face value and were able to chalk out a detailed itinerary for ourselves. It helped in looking up the various places to shortlist which ones we really wanted to see compared to the standard itineraries recommended as part of tour packages which end up making people tired and a little bored. We not only wanted to use time optimally but also remain motivated and interested as we covered these 5 cities in a week.

Bangalore, 16th December 2009:

Our biggest advantage during this vacation was the weather. The best time to see Rajasthan is from November to February and we were going there at Christmas time. The flip side was that we couldn’t travel light.

Once we shared our plans with friends and family, a lot of advice followed. “It’ll be very cold there”, “Are you sure it is safe?’, “What arrangements have you made?”, “Have you checked with someone who has been there?’ and so on…

I and Sunitha just hoped that all the arrangements we had made would work out fine. We were really looking forward to this vacation.

Udaipur, 23rd December 2009:

Finally the day came. With our bags packed and are hopes high, both of us set out for our adventurous trip. We flew from Bangalore via Mumbai to Udaipur where our road trip across Rajasthan was about to begin.

We were greeted at the Udaipur airport by our tour guide alongwith our cab driver, Raju Bhaiya, who was to be with us throughout our journey across this land of deserts, forts and colors.

We started with the boat ride across Lake Pichola, the biggest lake in the city. The lake is surrounded by palaces and the ride during sunset is a real feast to the eyes. The boat also stops for 30 minutes at Jagmandir Palace which is surrounded by the lake on all sides. The walk through the princely gardens makes one really feel royal. There are sections of the Jagmandir palace which are still used by the royal family of Udaipur and are not open to public. However the remaining palace and its gardens are a welcome treat and are highly popular as a venue for weddings and parties amidst the rich and the famous.

After our dreamy boat ride, we went to the “Baghore ki Haveli” which is near Lake Pichola and is known for the cultural programme in the evening. What greeted us was an amazing array of Rajasthani folk music and dances including the popular Bhavai and Ghoomar dances as well as puppet shows. The anchor explained the purpose and history of each dance as the artists brightened up the stage with their lively performances. We were completely rapt as the artists danced over blades, swords and broken glass with the matkas on their head, all in perfection.

Dinner was another affair to remember. The “Vintage Car Collection Museum” offers a sumptuous Rajasthani thaali alongwith a tour of the royal vintage car collection. As the incharge of the collection lit up the garage, his eyes also twinkled with the stories behind each of the cars which he shared with a lot of pride and zeal with us. My favorite story was the one with the Mercedez which had black shaded windows as it was driven by the queen who was the royal bahu and could not be seen doing so by the public. The fact that a work around was thought of instead of curtailing her interest reflected the openness of the royal family even in those days.

Once we were done with seeing the collection, we were taken to the restaurant where the steward affectionately offered the authentic meal to us. What struck us immediately about Udaipur was the hospitality. Each and every person greeted us with a lot of affection. With a great start of our holiday and a satisfied tummy, we retired for the night at our comfortable hotel. Even during the end of December, the weather in Udaipur was very pleasant.

Udaipur and Jodhpur, 24th December 2009:

The next morning saw us enjoying the sunshine at “Sahelion ki Baari”. According to our guide, this garden was made by a king for his daughter as she wished to experience monsoon in summers. The garden is replete with beautiful fountains which constantly make you experience the sound of rain. The fountains at the entrance are sound sensitive. The water gushing out as I walked through the path clapping my hands made me truly feel like a princess.

After a bright beginning of the day, we moved towards Jodhpur which is 250 kms away from Udaipur. The roads across Rajasthan are very good and you can’t help admire the scenic beauty on the way. A stop at the Ranakpur Jain temple on the way to Jodhpur is a must. It is believed that the Ranakpur temple is one of the 3 completely vaastu compliant temples in India, the other two being the Tirumalai temple in Tirupathi and the Sun Temple in Konark. With 1444 pillars, the temple reflects one of the finest architectures that I have seen. The priest generally takes the visitors on a 45 minute tour of the temple explaining each and every corner with detail. The temple also is a lesson in humility. An example being that one of the pillars has been intentionally made crooked to bring in certain imperfection as the maker believed that only God could be perfect.

Awestruck, we moved on with our journey. There are very good restaurants on the way for lunch though we did have to depend on Raju Bhaiya’s knowledge and preference for this. We reached Jodhpur in the evening and spent a good part of the evening shopping for Baandhini material before we called it a day. Another fruitful day and we were really looking forward to visiting the Mehrangarh Fort the next morning.

Jodhpur, 25th December 2009:

The Mehrangarh fort turned out to be a high point of our trip. The sheer size, strength and solitude of the fort makes you fall in love with it as it looms large in view miles before you reach it. We had our tour guide, though the fort offers audio guides as well. The elevator carved through the stone walls is a blessing for people who don’t wish to exert their knees by climbing 3 floors of rocky slope. A fascinating view of the “Blue City” greeted us as we stepped out of the elevator. It is said that the houses were painted blue to demarcate the Brahmin colonies.

The fort is well maintained with a magnificent collection of haudas, paalkis, paalnas, weaponry and the personal collection of the royal family including intricate wine and cigar holders. The rich history of Jodhpur as presented through the archives of the Mehrangarh fort is remarkable.

Close to Mehrangarh fort is the Jaswant Thada. This is one of rare tombs made by a wife in memory of her husband. As we walked towards the site the soft melody of the famous Rajasthani folk song ‘kesariya baalam aavoji, padharo mare des”, by one of the local artists, melted in my ears.

After a beautiful morning, we set out for the most sought after part of our trip, Jaisalmer. As we approached Jaisalmer, the arid land around us reminded us that were entering into sand territory. What also struck us immediately was that all the buildings in Jaisalmer looked alike be it a shop, hotel, office or a house. The architecture was quite similar and the yellow stone used for construction added to the uniformity. Exhausted by the morning excitement, the night was spent peacefully at the hotel in Jaisalmer.

Jaisalmer, 26th December 2009:

A complete contrast to the Mehrangarh fort, the Jaisalmer fort has 5000 families residing inside and is a township in itself. The families belong to those who served the royal family and were given a place to stay in the fort in appreciation of their services. The fort has two Jain temples inside which are the only places worth seeing. We enjoyed the visit to the “Patwon ki Haveli” more where we got to experience the richness of the those times again with silver furniture, gold ceilings and beautiful architecture.

The visit to Jaisalmer wouldn’t have been complete without purchasing mirror work stuff and camel leather goods. After a short break at the market, we moved towards Sam Sand Dunes which is about 40 kilometers away from the city and where we were to stay in a camp that night. As we reached the camp, the desert around looked irresistible. A short rest and we were ready for our camel ride into the desert.

The camel ride, I must say, is an experience in itself as one gets thrown backwards and forward when the camel gets up. The bouncy ride across the unpredictable sand dunes left us clinging to our seat for dear life. Our camel “Sheroo Khan” was a little impulsive too which added to our predicament. The camel left us on top of our preferred dune from where we could watch the beautiful sunset. Sitting there, that evening, watching the sun across the vastness of the desert was truly mesmerizing.

The evening followed with a campfire and folk dances at our camp. Our tents were well equipped with a double bed, table, chairs and most importantly a toilet with hot and cold water. Tea, snacks and dinner were on the house. One needs to be well packed to deal with the freezing cold in the tent at night though. The blankets weren’t much help and we had to cover ourselves from head to toe warm ourselves up. The silence of the open desert and the fact that the tents can’t be locked felt a little weird initially but soon peaceful slumber took over.

Sam and Bikaner, 27th December 2009:

The morning started earlier at the camp with the crack of dawn. With just a few early risers around, I couldn’t resist the walk towards the desert to enjoy it all by myself. The camels had just started coming in and I was highly tempted to take another ride which made me rush back to the tent and wake up my friend. We took a longer trip this time, nearly up to the border. It felt strange that just a string of barbed wire marked the limits of two countries. Perched on top of the camel, my eyes gaped in awe across the vast Thar desert and the beautiful sand which felt like talcum.

With this image etched in my mind, we moved towards our next destination, Bikaner most famously associated with Bhujia. We reached there in the evening. The first on the itinerary was the Bhandashah Jain temple. The temple is more than 600 years old and was the first Jain temple in the city. The beautiful meenakari paintings on the walls of the temple still look fresh and lively. The temple was very colorful as compared to the Jain temples we had visited at Ranakpur and Jaisalmer.

The rest of the evening was spent at our hotel in Bikaner complimented by a puppet show and folk music.

Bikaner, 28th December 2009:

The day started for us at the Junagarh fort which is an amazing combination of Indian architecture and imported raw material right from the Italian flooring to the Swiss tiles on the chamber walls, doors made of silver and ceilings made of gold. The Junagarh fort again unfolded the rich history and culture of the state of Bikaner to us. The fort was again well kept and the rooms looked like they are still being used. We also got to know the rationale behind various things, for instance, the beds were just 6 inches higher from the floor so that the enemy couldn’t hide under the bed. The commentary provided by the fort guides mixed with amazing sense of humor made the fort tour very enjoyable. This was the only fort where the guides are government appointed and there is no additional charge for their services.

After a nice cup of masala chai and walk through the Lallgarh Palace (now a famous hotel), we headed towards our final destination, Jaipur. We reached Jaipur late in the evening and spent a couple of hours shopping. Of course it is sinful to be in Jaipur and not shop around. Anything which you missed in the other cities is available here.

Jaipur, 29th December 2009:

The morning started with a visit to Jantar Mantar. It was inspiring to see the exemplary astronomical observatory, a reflection of the farsightedness and knowledge of our ancestors. A short stop at Hawa Mahal was followed by an extravagant Rajasthani Thaali at the revolving restaurant in Om Towers. The restaurant is situated on the 14th floor and provides a full view of the city from all sides.

The final stop was at the Amber fort. I was more impressed with the exteriors of the fort than its interiors. Though it did not hold the richness of the Mehrangarh or Junagarh forts, the Sheesh Mahal, intricately carved with glass, was impressive. As I looked up to the stone wall across the mountain from Amber fort, this probably marked an apt end to a memorable holiday. The massive wall cutting across the huge rocky mountain epitomized the valor of the Rajput culture.

I closed by eyes and mused over my experiences in the last week. Images began to pour in- the romanticism of Udaipur, the stalwartness of Mehrangarh, the intriguing architecture of Ranakpur, the vastness and peace of the desert in Jaisalmer and the colorful sense of humor of Bikaner. I had learnt so much from this land of contrasts with the Sati imprints on one hand to queens driving their own cars, the lush lakes of Udaipur to the arid and vegetation short territory of Jaisalmer, the guides enthralling stories of valor of the kings to Raju Bhaiya’s latest gossip on filmstars that he had driven across during shootings in Rajasthan. I rolled back my head and savored each image as we headed back to Delhi.

Chinese New Year at Singapore

I was chatting with my friend online on a lazy December evening when she mentioned that she had 4 days off during the Chinese New Year at Singapore and nothing to do. I jokingly replied that I could come over and before we realised, we were both chalking out a plan for the 4 day holiday. Soon we realised that there was a lot of stuff to do in the four days in Singapore. Here is a glimpse of some of the fun things to do there specially around the Chinese New Year: 

China Town:

A visit to China Town is a must during the Chinese New Year. The whole locality is resplendant with the ambience of the Chinese culture, be it the red colored lamps, the red envelopes ( Hong Bao), little souvenirs, linen, and delicacies. You can get a good bargain where most things would be available in sets of 3 for 10 SGD. A great place to collect nick knacks for the dear ones at home. Chinatown is closed on the New Year's day and a couple of days following it. The month before the new year's day is a good time to visit Chinatown.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum:

This temple is located in Chinatown. There are nearly 1000 idols of Buddha in different sizes. One of the most beautiful Buddhist temples to see.

Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple:

This is a Hindu temple. It is believed that if you pray with your heart in this temple and your wish is honest, your wish will come true.

River Hong Bao Festival:

This is the main attraction of the Chinese New Year. On New Year's eve, the floating platform on Marina Bay is decorated and there are performances by artists from various fields. There is no charge to watching these performances. Go early to get a good seat. A great opportunity to know more about the Chinese Horoscope.

Wild Wild Wet:

With the tropical weather of Singapore, the Wild Wild Wet water park offers a great break from the heat. Splash in the Tsunami pool and if you are the adventurous kinds, do not miss the steep boat slide on the Water Slide.

Sentosa Island:

Your Singapore visit cannot be complete without visiting Sentosa. Some of the attractions here are the Dolphin Lagoon, Underwater world,Luge and the Skyride, the 4D Cinemagix, the "Songs of the Sea" show, the cable car etc.

G-MAX Reverse Bungy:

If you are adventurous and the adrenalin rush excites you, the G-MAX Reverse Bungy is the thing for you. Even the bravest scream their lungs out when flung into the air against the gravity. They also take a video of you when you are at the peak of the ride.

Jurong Bird Park:

If your are tired of the stunts of your local celebrities, here are some celebrities with a difference. These birds are truly rock stars and as one of them flies past making it right throuh the ring or counts to 100 in Chinese, or plays basketball, you will capture memories to cherish forever.

Night Safari:

Most people have visited the zoo sometime or the other but the night safari is a different experience. Greeted by the foot thumping tribal dances, your quiet sojourn into the serene forest environment during the late night hours will make you experience the animal world like never before.

Bugis:

If you are looking for a combination of expensive mall shopping and the not so expensive street shopping, Bugis is the place for you. Check out the street market and if you care to splurge then the malls across the road have some great offers.

These were just some of the things that I experienced during my Singapore visit. In addition, the discipline and cleanliness of the place is an experience in itself...

Ooty: A hill station that still has fresh air

It was an extended weekend and I was looking for getting away from the Bangalore to somewhere quieter. My friend suggested a trip to Ooty. While we were worried about getting caught in the rainy weather, we took the risk none the less and believe me, it was worth it.

To travel to Ooty from Bangalore, you can take an AC volvo bus. KSRTC is the best service provider in this regard. The best time is to catch the 9:45 p.m bus that reaches Ooty at 6:00 a.m. Tickets cost around Rs.360 per head.

In Ooty for local sightseeing, the best mode would be to hire a day long cab from your hotel. Charges would be around Rs.1200 keeping in view the various places that you would want to see. The cab driver would also act as your tourist guide and take you to all places worth a visit.

Places to see in Ooty:

1.Botanical Gardens: this is the main tourist spot in Ooty. Spread over acres of greenery, the botanical gardens boast of some very beautiful flowers. You will really appreciate the efforts put in maintaining this garden. A nice picnic spot with loads of lush green grass to sit and spend your leisure hours. Tickets cost Rs. 15 per head.

2. Rose Garden : The rose garden has an ardent display of hundreds of varieties of roses. It of course is more fruitful to be there in the peak season when the roses are in full bloom. However even in the withering rains, we were charmed by the amazing nomenclature used for some of the varieties. A garden you could spend hours in just amidst the lovely flowers. Entry charges are again Rs. 15 per head.

3. Pykara lake and falls: If you are keen on boating, avoid the artificial lake in the Ooty city center and head for Pykara instead. Pykara is about 20 kms from the city but the boating experience is amazing with thick jungles on both sides. There are 6 seater and 8 seater motor boats available. You can share the boat if you are lesser in number. Boat charges are for Rs.300 to Rs.500 per ride. Once you are done with the boat ride, head for the Pykara falls nearby. The streaming water not only provides a pleasant respite to the city smoke ridden eyes but the lush greenery around is also mesmerising.

4. 9th mile: If you are still looking for more scenic beauty, do drop at the 9th mile on your way back from pykara. As the name suggests, this spot is 9 miles from the Ooty city. There are lush green meadows here surrounded by the beauty of the hills. Most of the bollywood movies in the 80s and 90s had song sequences shot here.

All the above destinations can be covered in a single day. You can plan for a ride to Coonoor the next day if you have more time.

Where to eat in Ooty: While most hotels and restaurants in Ooty provide average food, you can definitely try the Chicken Chettinaad at Hotel Blue Hills. Charing cross is a posh locality where you can find a number of hotels otherwise.

Evenings in Ooty : The sightseeing generally gets over by 5:00 p.m. In the evening you can stroll around the markets if you are keen on getting some Nilgiri tea and essential oils. Ooty is also known for home made chocolates.

Toy Train to Coonoor: If you have a day to spare, take a trip to Coonoor on the toy train. You can book the tickets for the train online through the IRCTC website. The first class ticket costs around Rs. 100. I was glad I had booked the ticket. We were treated like royalty at the Ooty railway station. Only passengers with first class tickets are allowed to wait at the platform before the train arrives. The rest have to wait outside. It was just 5-6 people on the entire platform :-).

The ride to Coonoor is a treasure for the eyes as the train takes you through the scenic Nilgiris. Don't miss the advertisements by Mohans in the most unexpected places. The train ride is for an hour. You can ask your cab driver to come and pick you are the Coonoor railway station  and come back to Ooty by cab. You could also visit Doddabeta peak on your way back.

While in Ooty and Coonoor, do stop at the tea plantations on the way for some beautiful shots to treasure memories forever...